Sunday, March 28, 2010

How to Hem Suit Jacket Sleeves

The sleeves on a suit jacket seem to be made for a monkey! Finding one to fit does not have to be frustrating. Follow these easy steps to a perfect fit.
Step 1Marking the new hem:Mark the appropriate length by folding the hem under and pinning it in place. Try on the jacket with the sleeves pinned up and make sure that they are not too short when you bend your arms.
Step 2Measure with your tape measure how much the hem needs to be adjusted. We will call this Measurement A!Turn the sleeves inside out and measure how much of the sleeve is used for the actual hem by the original maker. We will call this Measurement B!Using your seam ripper removed the lining stitches from the jacket at the sleeve hem. Fold the sleeve material under the correct Measurement A. (Measure twice, cut once!) Trim the sleeve to the same Measurement B the original maker used. Pin in place on the very edge of the sleeve.Trim the lining to meet with the new hem leaving the same measurement of fabric as the manufacturer did. Pin in place!Example:I need to take 1 inch of fabric from my sleeve.I measure the sleeve before removing the stitching. It has a 1 inch hem from lining to the end of the sleeve.I remove the stitches from the lining.I measure from the original fold of the fabric 1 inch. Pin in place at the hem.Remove 1 inch of fabric from the sleeve.Remove 1 inch of fabric from the lining.Measure 1 inch from the new hem and place lining on this mark. Pin in place!
Step 3Turn the sleeve to the right side and try it on being careful of the pins. If you are satisfied with the results, take off the jacket and press the new hem in place. Turn the jacket sleeve inside out and whipstitch the lining to the sleeve material. Repeat for the second sleeve.
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